Mushrooms in France aren’t just an ingredient — they’re history, myth, and quiet rebellion. In this episode of Fishwives of Paris, we go underground to explore the surprising story of Paris mushrooms, from their origins in the gardens of Versailles to their cultivation in the Catacombs beneath the city.

We unpack how French mushroom farming was displaced by the Metro, why most “Paris mushrooms” today are grown abroad, and why the French still fiercely protect hyper-local produce. Along the way, we explore foraging taboos, culinary traditions, and the strange power mushrooms hold at the crossroads of food, medicine, and culture.

Whether you’re here for food, history, or the weird rules no one explains to tourists, this episode digs into the shadowy, surprising world of French mushrooms — and what they reveal about how France eats.

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If you see Paris mushrooms on a French menu, don’t assume they were grown anywhere near the capital. Today, around 70% of the mushrooms consumed in France are grown in China. The name refers not to provenance, but to history: Paris mushrooms first gained acclaim in the gardens of Versailles before their cultivation moved underground — into the quarries and caverns that would later become the Paris Catacombs.

In this episode, we dive deep into the strange, shadowy, and surprisingly political world of French mushrooms. We trace how mushrooms went from thriving beneath Paris to being displaced by the construction of the Metro, how underground growing persists today in a few rare places, and why French consumers still fiercely prioritize hyper-local produce — something you can spot instantly thanks to France’s strict origin-labeling laws.

We also explore how mushrooms sit at the crossroads of food, medicine, culture, and control in France — from their presence in pharmacies to the sacred (and secretive) rules of foraging, including why no one will ever share their spot with you, and what happens if you forage on land that isn’t yours.

Along the way, we take a detour through pop culture (yes, including the movie about sharks in the Seine: Under Paris) and end the episode with an oyster mushroom, a fitting close for an episode rooted in the underground.

In this episode, you’ll learn:

• The role French pharmacies play in foraging for mushrooms
• Why the French word for mushrooms might make you pause
• Why foraging in France is treated as sacred — and tightly guarded
• The unsuspecting relationship between mushrooms and the catacombs of Paris 
• How the Loire Valley incorporates tourism into mushroom production
• Why French shoppers fiercely prioritize hyper-local produce
• How the French prepare mushrooms, including our favorite spot to enjoy them stuffed with snails, garlic, and butter

Places, people & references mentioned:

• La Cave des Roches – A historic mushroom farm in the Loire Valley that now relies on tourism to survive economically challenging times
• Bruno Zamblera – A grower who still cultivates mushrooms underground, continuing a nearly lost tradition
• Café de Musée – Where escargots à la bourguignonne are reimagined using mushroom caps instead of snails (Emily’s favorite) 

Mushroom dishes & recipes discussed:

• Duxelles – Finely chopped mushrooms cooked down with shallots and herbs
• Sauce à la Forestière – A classic mushroom-forward French sauce

This episode is a journey through tunnels, traditions, and taboos — revealing how something as humble as a mushroom can tell the story of Paris, French food culture, and what it means to eat locally in a globalized world.

🎧 Fishwives of Paris, where French food myths go to die.

Hosted by Lyon-based sommelier Caroline Fazeli and Paris-based food journalist Emily Monaco.

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