The Invention of Restaurants with Allison Zinder: How Paris Created Eating Out

In this episode of Fishwives of Paris, Emily and Caroline sit down with gastronomy guide and chef Allison Zinder to uncover the surprising origins of the modern restaurant. Long before Michelin stars and tasting menus, eating out in Paris meant rough taverns, communal tables, and restorative broths served to “fainting aristocrats.” Together, they trace how Paris transformed dining into an experience centered around pleasure, ritual, and performance, and how the cultural codes born in 18th century France still shape French restaurants today. Along the way, they explore menus, mirrors, guild lawsuits, slow meals, and why substitutions remain deeply frowned upon in France.

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Did Paris invent the restaurant?

In this episode of Fishwives of Paris, Emily and Caroline sit down with gastronomy guide and chef Allison Zinder to uncover the surprising origins of eating out in Paris. From medieval taverns and restorative broths to guild lawsuits, Michelin stars, and modern restaurant culture, they explore how France transformed dining into an experience built around pleasure, ritual, and performance.

Along the way, they unpack why French restaurants still feel so different today, from slow meals and mirrored dining rooms to the cultural horror of asking for substitutions.

This episode specifically references these restaurants:

• The first restaurant opened by Boulanger/Boulanger-Chantoiseau on rue des Poulies (modern-day rue du Louvre area) — the original restorative broth restaurant
• Le Pied de Cochon — referenced as a surviving example of historic Les Halles restaurant culture
• Bouillon Chartier — discussed as a classic example of the bouillon tradition

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New episodes every other Tuesday