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Fishwives of Paris

S1 · E2

The Secret History of Camembert

Camembert is one of France’s most iconic foods, but its history is far stranger than most people realize.

Was it really invented by a Norman farm girl and a fugitive priest during the French Revolution? Why did trains help make it famous? Why can’t Americans buy authentic Camembert de Normandie? And what happened to the original molds that once covered the cheese?

Caroline Fazeli and Emily Monaco dive into the myths, history, politics, and science behind France’s most popular soft cheese before putting several very different Camemberts to the test.

Podcast Show Notes

  • The legendary origin story of Camembert
  • The surprising connection between Brie and Camembert
  • How trains and wooden boxes changed French food history
  • What AOP protection means for cheese
  • Why Camembert became France’s national cheese
  • The battle between artisanal and industrial producers
  • Why authentic Camembert cannot be imported to the United States
  • The truth about the famous white rind
  • Industrial Camembert vs Camembert de Normandie
  • A tasting of Livarot, Camembert, and Camembert au Calvados

Key Takeaways

  • Camembert likely evolved from Brie but became a distinct Norman cheese through local milk, local molds, and local traditions.
  • The famous origin story may be partly historical and partly marketing.
  • Camembert’s popularity was driven by rail transport and standardized packaging.
  • The protected name is Camembert de Normandie, not simply Camembert.
  • Authentic Camembert de Normandie must be made from raw milk.
  • Most Camembert sold today is industrially produced.
  • The iconic white rind is a relatively modern development.
  • Many Americans mistakenly use “Brie” to describe cheeses that are actually Camembert-style.
  • Camembert became a symbol of French identity during the twentieth century.